Paul Martinez: Death Road

I recently had the opportunity to visit South America and of all the things I did, I would most recommend the Death Road near La Paz, Bolivia.

It's billed as the most dangerous road in the world, the Yungas Road connecting the Bolivian cities of La Paz and Coroico. The road starts at an altitude of 15,300 feet and descends for about 40 miles to an altitude of 3,900 feet.

The road is a dizzying array of dirt paths -- at some points no more than 9 feet wide -- that twist and turn across stunning mountain scenery. Steep cliffs surround the road, at times on both sides. The road is no longer used by cars as a replacement route has been built, but it is popular with tourists. Numerous tour companies will take you to the top, rent you a bike and gear and then lead you down the road. Injuries are common and death not too uncommon on the death road.

But you only live once. So I anteed up the 400 Bolivianos (about $60) and did it.

Using a company called Vertigo Biking, I woke up at 7 a.m. to start my conquest of the world's most dangerous road. The two-hour drive through La Paz and up the mountain was just about worth the price of the ticket. Bolivia may be one of the most underdeveloped countries in the Western Hemisphere, but it's also one of the most beautiful countries in the world.

Shrouded by clouds at the top, we choose our mountain bikes and were also provided with safety equipment including knee and elbow pads, helmets, trousers and a jacket as its quite cold at that sort of altitude.

We then started our descent. For the first few miles, we went down the new road. You could pick-up speed easily on the fully-paved road, but at the same time we had to share the road with vehicles. We had to stay to the right, which was the side with the cliff.

We soon reached the old road, a dirt road built in the 1930s by Paraguayan prisoners from the Chaco War. Miles and miles of dirt paths are carved into the side of Andes Mountains. Many small waterfalls soaked the road, which was dotted by crosses, Stars of David and other memorials to the people who left their lives on the death road.



The ride was amazing. Our group would stop frequently to take pictures and have snacks. The ride lasts about four to five hours and ended with an early dinner and a dip in a pool at the hotel near the end of the road.

Before the tour started, our guides informed us that someone usually falls during the course of the ride. Lo and behold, that person on this ride would be me.

There was a long straight-away at a gentle decline, with a cliff toward the right. I lowered my head and leaned forward to gain speed when I felt my back tire go wobbly. I started to fishtail and I fell forward. I was knocked unconscious for about 5 or 10 minutes.

I awoke to one of the guides taking my shirt off to clean my wounds. I badly skinned my left shoulder and peck. Under my left eye, I had a bruise and a cut from my sunglasses digging into my face. My palms on both hands were also skinned, and I eventually needed stitches on my right hand. I also bruised my ribs, which is particularly unpleasant when you're staying in a city that's 12,000 feet above sea-level. What's more than all that, however, is when I came to rest after the fall I was about two feet from the edge of the cliff, according to some of the other riders. I was also lucky to not break any bones.



Not to be condescending, but I think I was more scared of having to go to the hospital in Bolivia than I was to do the death road. But my fears were quickly abolished. I went to the Arcoiris Hospital in La Paz and was very impressed by the level of medical attention I received. I got a CAT Scan, with a first-rate machine. A friendly Cuban doctor named Sarita Montenegro treated me. She told me the helmet saved my life. In general, the hospital was clean and well organized. The most amazing thing about it is: I paid for the CAT Scan, the consultation, the care and stitches and the medication and ointments I was prescribed with cash. In all, it cost $74.

Despite my accident, the death road was without a doubt the most thrilling and accelerating experience of my life. I would absolutely do it again, and I would recommend that you do it as well.